You might walk past it a dozen times without looking up. Tucked between the low-rise shophouses of Jalan Power and Jalan Khoo Hun Yeang, the Open Air Market — also called Tower Market — looks like any other covered hawker centre in Kuching. But the white brick tower rising from its centre tells a different story.
That tower is the only surviving piece of Kuching's first fire station, built in 1927 after a coal-powered fire engine arrived from England a decade earlier. Before it stood here, this spot was a tidal creek called Sungai Gartak — a name that now survives only on the street sign of Jalan Gartak. The creek was reclaimed during the second White Rajah era, and the fire station rose on the fill, chosen because the Great Kuching Fire of 1884 had shown how devastating a blaze could be in a town of wooden shophouses.
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Wikimedia Commons / Shoestring
Inside the market today, you can still make out the tower's year — 1927 — marked near its top. For decades it was the lookout from which firemen scanned Kuching's skyline. When the fire brigade moved to Jalan Padungan in the 1950s, the station was demolished. But the watchtower was spared, and the empty lot was gradually taken over by hawkers selling food to passengers arriving at the bus terminal that had formed nearby.
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KuchingBorneo
The name "Open Air Market" stuck even after DBKU built a roof over the whole complex in 1971. Ask anyone in Kuching and they will tell you this is where you come for Red Kolo Mee — a version of Sarawak's signature noodle tossed in char siew oil rather than the usual white or dark sauce. Stall No. 29, known as Red Kolo Mee (老牌红油面), has been serving it for over 60 years, opening from 5pm to midnight. The family behind it still makes the char siew from scratch, and regulars say nothing else tastes quite the same.
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My Lovely Blue Sky
Beside it, the stall called Sin Kwong Heng (新光兴) serves sio bee — the local Hokkien-Teochew name for siew mai — with a distinctive pork-and-prawn filling that is softer and more delicate than the versions found in West Malaysia. Locals eat them with tomato sauce and wash them down with soy milk dispensed straight from a metal drum.
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My Lovely Blue Sky
Then, when the night gets going, there is RG Ais Krim Bergula Apong — a soft-serve stall that opens from 1pm all the way until 5am. It is said to be the original creator of Kuching's now-famous gula apong ice cream, made from the dark, slightly salty palm sugar that Sarawak produces from nipah trees. On hot nights the queue stretches past neighbouring stalls.
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My Lovely Blue Sky
The other building, just a few steps away, comes alive for dinner with Chinese seafood stalls serving steamed fish, stir-fried kangkung belacan, pork porridge, and frogs cooked in claypot. A meal for three or four rarely exceeds RM60. Regulars praise the speed — orders arrive within 15 minutes — and the breezy garden seating that lets you eat under the stars.
In 2025, DBKU mayor Dato Hilmy Othman announced a comprehensive upgrade plan for the market area. Funding has been requested from the Sarawak government, and the council has pledged to preserve the tower while improving the surrounding infrastructure, including the stretch towards Brooke Dockyard and the Kuching Waterfront. James Yong, author and vice president of the Sarawak Heritage Society, has been advocating for a mural and lighting makeover to turn the tower into a proper tourism landmark.
Who should come here? Anyone who wants to taste the Kuching that locals actually live in — not the polished version you get at a hotel restaurant. If you are comfortable with utilitarian surroundings, zero air-conditioning, and the occasional pigeon flying through the rafters, this is your place. If you expect table service and stainless-steel hygiene scores, you will probably want to eat somewhere else.
The practical part: The market sits on Jalan Power, a five-minute walk from the Old Court House or the Kuching Waterfront. The Tower Market section (with the watchtower) is busiest for breakfast and lunch; the seafood section peaks from 6pm. Parking is tight — many locals double-park after dark, and enforcement officers generally look the other way in the evening, though daytime parking invites summons. A Grab car from anywhere in the city centre costs under RM10.
Open Air Market on Google Maps
This is not a polished tourist attraction. It is a place where the city's history is written in layers — the reclaimed creek beneath your feet, the 1927 tower above your head, and three generations of hawkers working woks in between. That is the Kuching worth knowing.